Christmas in Milan: markets, lights and Oh Bej! Oh Bej!

Milan

Alba García October 28, 2026

Milan doesn't wait until December 24th to enter festive mode. Here, Christmas kicks off on December 7th, the feast day of Sant'Ambrogio, the city's patron saint, and lasts until Epiphany on January 6th. During those weeks, the fashion capital swaps shop windows for wooden stalls, the aroma of roasted chestnuts fills the squares, and the Duomo becomes the backdrop for thousands of photos.

In this article, we'll tell you what you absolutely can't miss: the Christmas markets, the lights, the panettone, and above all, Oh Bej! Oh Bej!, the oldest fair in the city. And since we know your trip starts long before you reach Piazza del Duomo, we'll also give you tips on getting around and exploring the surrounding areas with a rental car.

Oh Bej! Oh Bej!: the Christmas fair with more than five centuries of history

If you can only choose one Christmas activity in Milan, make it this. The Oh Bej! Oh Bej! tradition originated in the 16th century, and its name, in Milanese dialect, means something like 'How lovely, how lovely!' Tradition says that's what children exclaimed upon receiving sweets and small gifts during the Sant'Ambrogio festivities.

Today the fair occupies the area around the Castello Sforzesco and its stalls extend towards Parco Sempione. It usually lasts four days around December 7th, typically from the 5th to the 8th, although we recommend confirming the 2026 dates before finalizing your trip.

Here's what you'll find:

• Antiques and second-hand goods : engravings, ceramics, silverware, glassware, and antique furniture. It's a market for leisurely browsing, quite different from typical flea markets selling decorative items.
• Crafts and toys : perfect if you're traveling with children or looking for a gift with a story.
• Street food : vin brûlé (mulled wine with cinnamon and cloves), frittelle, and especially firunatt, necklaces of roasted chestnuts worn around the neck. A glass of mulled wine usually costs between €3 and €5.

Our advice: go on Saturday or Sunday first thing in the morning, before 10:00. After midday it gets crowded and it's difficult to move around the stalls, especially with a shopping cart. Admission is free.

December 7th is also a public holiday in Milan, and La Scala opens its opera season that night. Getting tickets for that evening is nearly impossible, but simply going to Piazza della Scala to see the audience arrive, dressed in formal attire and surrounded by cameras, is a spectacle in itself.

Milan's Christmas markets

Beyond the Oh Bej! Oh Bej!, Milan spreads its Christmas spirit across several markets, each with its own personality:

• Piazza del Duomo : Wooden stalls surround the cathedral selling sweets, handcrafted goods, textiles, and gifts. It's the most central and busiest market, featuring Santa's house and a life-size nativity scene for children.
• Milan Christmas Village : in the Indro Montanelli Gardens, at Porta Venezia. Lights, music, gift stalls, and all kinds of street food, from polenta to churros with chocolate. A perfect plan if you're traveling with family.
• Piazza Gae Aulenti : In the trendy Porta Nuova district, a French-inspired market sets up around a large tree. Crêpes, macarons, and mulled wine amidst skyscrapers.
• Banco di Garabombo : located next to Via Mario Pagano, it's open from November until early January, offering sustainable products, natural cosmetics, and handicrafts. Ideal if you're looking for unique gifts.

The city council and organizers announce the exact dates each year between November and December, so check them before you travel.

Lights, skating, and panettone

At the end of November, Milan switches on its Christmas lights and the large tree is placed in front of the Duomo. From there you can enjoy a perfect stroll: cross the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, continue along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to San Babila, and end on Via Monte Napoleone, where the major fashion houses compete to have the most spectacular lights.

Prefer to escape the crowds? We suggest the streets of Brera at sunset or the Navigli canals, where the lights reflect on the water and the atmosphere is much more peaceful. If you fancy something different, outdoor ice rinks open in December in places like Piazza Castello, the Montanelli Gardens, or Piazza Gae Aulenti. Entry with skates usually costs around €8-12.

And don't leave without trying panettone, the Christmas sweet bread that Milan gave to the world. You can find it in the supermarket for €5-10, but it's worth treating yourself to a handmade one from historic bakeries like Marchesi, Cova, or Cucchi, for around €40-70 per kilo. Milanese people serve it after Christmas Eve dinner, accompanied by a Moscato d'Asti or a Prosecco.

How to get to Milan and take a road trip

If you're flying, you'll most likely land at Malpensa, the city's main airport, about 50 km from the city center. Picking up your rental car at Malpensa Airport is the most convenient option if you're arriving with luggage, children, or want to see more than just the city. If you're arriving by train, you can also rent a car at Milan Central Station and head straight to your next destination.

However, within the historic center, we recommend getting around on foot or by metro. Milan has a restricted access zone (Area C) with parking fees, and parking in the center is expensive. Where you'll really enjoy having a car is on Christmas getaways to the surrounding areas.

• Lake Como (about 50 km): illuminated villages by the water and far fewer tourists than in summer.
• Bergamo (about 50 km): its walled Città Alta looks especially beautiful in December.
• Lake Maggiore : very close to Malpensa, ideal for the arrival or departure day.
• Verona (about 160 km): one of Italy's most famous Christmas markets, less than two hours away.

Before booking, keep a few things in mind. Demand skyrockets at Christmas, so the sooner you compare, the more options and better prices you'll find. If you're traveling as a family, choose an SUV or a station wagon with room for luggage and child seats; if you're looking for the lowest price, a small car is cheaper and easier to park. Also, check the fuel level, the fuel policy, and make sure the card is in the name of the main driver.

One last tip for winter: on many roads in Lombardy, it's mandatory to carry winter tires or snow chains on board between November 15th and April 15th. Check your rental agreement to see if they're included.

With DoYouItaly, you can compare offers from all the major car rental companies in one place and see the price before booking, without having to browse dozens of websites. Find your rental car in Milan and dedicate your time to what matters: enjoying Christmas.

Tips for enjoying Christmas in Milan

• Choose your dates wisely : between December 7th and 23rd, the markets are bustling and prices haven't yet peaked. The week between Christmas and New Year's Eve is the most expensive, and the first week of January is the quietest.
• Dress warmly : temperatures hover around 2-8°C and morning fog is common. A hat and gloves are essential.
• Book your dinners on the 24th and 25th in advance : many restaurants are closed and those that are open usually offer a set menu with prior reservation.
• Please note the public holidays : on December 7, 25, 26, January 1 and 6, many shops and museums change their opening hours or close.

Milan at Christmas has something few other European cities offer: unique traditions that Milanese people cherish, going far beyond the usual Christmas market. Plan your route, pack your coat, and let us take care of finding you a car. Merry Christmas!